A pavilion, a cabin, and a porch or two ( Elwood pass alternate route, I left the official trail at 792.4 and have hiked 75 miles on alternate)

So Widesky and I decided to wait out the storm. The weather was actually really good in Chama but there were reports of heavy snow headed for the mountains. We had a cool room at the Y motel that had a full kitchen in it so we bought frozen pizzas at the Lowe’s grocery store and cooked them. On the7th of May, we just relaxed and hung around, watched a couple of movies on the tv and the awesome lady at the motel cooked us some dinner and brought it over. It was a good day. I got my new thermarest air mattress and rode a borrowed bicycle to the post office across town to mail my old sleeping pad back home. We were keeping an eye on the weather and just waiting to see what would happen.

The next morning on the 8th we awoke to dark skies and a foreboding forecast. We had to make a decision. We knew Monster, and Moonshine Pete has hiked out the day before and were somewhere up in the mountains. We checked out the weather and there was a huge snowstorm expected especially at elevations over 9000 feet. I was also having problems with my trail runners and the snowshoes. The straps were cutting into my shoes and I really needed boots to wear with them. Plus we wanted to get to a theatre and watch the new Avengers movie.

So we decided to check out the bus schedule to Santa Fe. The bus didn’t leave until 1 in the afternoon and it was a 4 hour trip which would suck but we knew there was a hostel where we could stay at for cheap. We checked out the hostel online and it was booked solid. Crap, that wasn’t good: but then we had an idea maybe we could get to Pagosa Springs in Colorado instead. It had a theatre and was a lot closer but there was no bus. We decided to try to bum a ride. I checked out of the hotel and followed Widesky over to the visitor’s center where we could leave our packs on the porch and get the bicycles to roam around town casually mentioning to folks we were trying to get to Pagosa Springs.

The kindness of strangers is always a fickle strand upon which to place your hopes but it is truly amazing how often it pans out. I always tell people the trails are a place where you reject all you’ve been taught about trusting strangers. When you are trying to get to town and a stranger in a van stops and offers you a cookie; you take the cookie and get in the van. It’s just the way it works out here on the outskirts of society.

So there in Chama while checking out the historic 1881 Fosters saloon I happened to see a guy that had the same hat. Yup he was was wearing the same Tilley I have and even though I wasn’t wearing mine then; cause I had on my beanie I still walked up and cried “dude, awesome hat, I have the same one” he eyed my beanie questioningly and I told him I was a CDT hiker and it was in my pack at the moment. Just like that I had a new friend. We talked a while, I turned him over to Widesky who is way better at the small talk than I am, and soon we had a ride. The guys name was Russel and he was traveling through in his car on his way to Northern Colorado; so Pagosa Springs was on the way.

We jumped in his car and took off not having a clue how we’d ever get back, where we’d sleep, or what life had in store. All we knew was that Pagosa Springs had a theatre that was playing the Avengers and we’d figure it out from there. We tote our lives in and packs and home is where our feet are.

We made it to town and Russel dropped us off. The movie wasn’t playing till 7 and it was only 3 in the afternoon so we walked around town. We got word of a trail angel that let people sleep in his shed so we tracked down his phone number and gave him a call. He didn’t answer and Widesky left him a message. Meanwhile we checked out the park in town called Reservoir Hill. It was basically a small mountain and was really cool we climbed up to the overlook and took in the view. The guy called us back and said that he did usually put up hikers but he couldn’t this year because he was going to be out of town hiking a section of the PCT. He told us we should go to a place called Kip’s Grill and speak with a lady there called Angie who was going to help out while he was gone. We descended the hill and made our way to Kips where we ordered some burgers and looked around for Angie. The food was good but the lead was false. Angie wasn’t about the Trail Angel life at all. But oh well it was worth a shot, we would have to figure out our sleeping arrangements later because it was time to hit the movies.

The Liberty theatre was super cool and it had been open since 1919. I paid my 7 dollars for a ticket using the veteran’s discount. The movie was awesome. I won’t give any spoilers but if you haven’t seen it you definitely should.

After the movie we decided we could probably just stealth camp in the park if we climbed up the mountain for a ways so off we went in the dark. We found a path that lead up and after about a mile we stumbled upon a huge pavilion that overlooked the town. It was the perfect spot to stay the night, our private castle on the hill.

It rained all night and in the morning of the 9th we checked the weather and there was a winter storm warning for elevations above 9000 feet but we both felt the trail calling so we packed up and started walking back towards the other end of town where we could hitch to Chama and then to the trail.

I still needed to look for some boots as well so we stopped at a couple of outfitters and I found a pair of Columbia’s that I thought would work to get me through the snow. I planned to mail my trail runners ahead so I could pick them up in warmer climes. I hated the idea of buying boots because I knew they would probably tear up my feet; especially till I got them broke in but I needed them for the snowshoes so whatever it takes to keep moving forward.

We stopped at a gas station on the outskirts of town for drinks and snacks and Widesky suddenly realized he didn’t have his wallet. We went to a gazebo by the river that ran through town and he shook down his pack but still couldn’t find it. This wasn’t good as all his money and cards were in it. The last place he remembered having it was the theatre the night before so we figured that was where it was. The problem was that the theatre didn’t open till around seven pm so we were stuck in town. Widesky called and left messages and Facebook messaged the manager but nobody answered. We checked the pavilion where we had slept but no dice so we went to an Asian buffet place and ate lunch then checked out the free hot spring under the bridge in the park. I mailed my shoes to steamboat springs and we just hung out. I bought us dinner at the malt shop around 6 and we walked to the theatre.

At 715 we realized that it wasn’t going to open so I walked around till I found some locals having a meeting nearby and asked them if they knew any way to reach somebody. Sure enough one of them knew the owner and gave him a call. Soon afterwards someone showed up and unlocked the place. Widesky found his wallet in the seat he had used the night before and all was well. It was too late to hitch out of town so we climbed back up to our pavilion for the night.

The morning of the 10th we hiked straight out of town and put up our thumbs ready to get back to trail. It took a while but a lady stopped and picked us up, she was only going a few miles down the road however so we were soon back on the side of the road. About an hour later a native from the nearby reservation stopped and said he could take us all the way to Chama.

Once we got there we ran some quick errands and found a ride back up to Cumbres pass where we had left the trail nearly 4 days before. We knew there was still a chance of snow and that several feet had been dumped in the last few days but we needed to get back out there. We hadn’t heard from Monster and Moonshine Pete since they had hiked out on Tuesday morning and could only hope that no news was good news.

We got the top and boldly exited our ride into a world of snow. There were heads high piles of the stuff everywhere. We weren’t even sure how to climb up off the road. We managed to climb up a bank and set off up the trail. Even on our snow shoes we were postholing to our knees and progress was minimal. We made it less than a mile in the first 45 minutes or so and were forced to conclude there was no way we going to make it through the 70 miles of 12000 foot mountains to the next road crossing like this.

We turned back knowing there was supposed to be a shelter next to the nearby railroad tracks that we could stay in and review our options. We managed to find the shelter but it was snowed in over the roof.

We decided to follow the train tracks, which they had been clearing with a backhoe and see if we could find other shelter or a place to camp. Luckily the train station was nearby and though it was locked we were able to fit our tents onto the porch. We got set up as the snow started to fall again and spent a cozy night there on that old train platform. As the snow fell and I drifted off to sleep I felt a small connection with the pioneers, the soldiers, the cowboys, and the hoboes that had all shared that porch before.

On the 11th we awoke to even more snow.

We actually had phone service up there at 10000 feet and Widesky got a message from Monster on Facebook: they were back in Chama again. They had left on Tuesday before the snow storm hit and in the 4 and a half days they were in the mountains only managed to hike 27 miles of trail before having to bail and make their way down to the road and hitchhike back to Chama in New Mexico. That settled it for us. We had to find a different way through and luckily there was another option. We hated to turn away from the mountain but we decided to take the low CDT alternative that went down below 9000 feet. It was a highway walk down to where our new trail took off into through the Conejos river valley and then back up to the main trail at Elwood pass 50 miles away. We hiked 19 miles that day to Spectacle Lake campground. It was only 5 o’clock when we got there but since it was a nice campground on the river we stayed anyway.

The following morning on the 12th we got up and headed towards the mountains. The day was a climb and and we knew we would soon be back in the snow but hopefully it wouldn’t be as bad since we wouldn’t be quite as high up. We still felt like we had wussed out a bit by leaving the main trail but it was still a beautiful day hiking through mountains.We even saw some bighorn sheepEventually we reached the small town of Platoro Colorado which was snowed in and completely deserted for the winter. It was really cool and kind of eerie wandering around the completely empty streets. We saw foxes and coyotes dashing between the buildings and felt like the only people left in the world. We had only made it 16.6 miles for the day but the cabins had big porches right on the river that we could sleep on and there was even a small pavilion with a stone fire pit and chimney so we decided to stay. We cooked spam and tortillas over the fire and made dehydrated refried beans. Then once more, I slept on a borrowed porch, a new age hobo walking the planet and sleeping where I may.

I awoke by the river on my new front porch and happily set my sights toward the mountains. I was to climb back up to Elwood pass at 11,621 feet that day on the 13th. It was snow all the way but it was pretty firm and we didn’t even need our snow shoes for the first few hours. Then as the elevation rose and the day wore on the snow softened and we were forced to strap them on. As we approached 10,500 feet even our snowshoes were sinking in with each step. We trod on and soon we could feel the snow shifting beneath our feet as we walked and could hear the boom of distant avalanches. This was a first for me and it was a bit disconcerting and awe inspiring. At least several times an hour The snow would crack like thunder and the sound would reverberate around the valleys. We crossed creeks and rivers on bridges of snow, listening to the ice creak and crack beneath our feet. It was awe inspiring, insanely beautiful, and absolutely magnificent. It was also tough going and we knew that if it was this tough below 11000 feet we would probably have to take the Creed alternate route instead of doing the above tree-line section of the San Juan’s that was ahead. It wasn’t our favorite option but if the passes were closed we wouldn’t be able to resupply for over 100 miles and we’d be at 12 to 13000 feet the whole time which meant we would not be able to make enough miles to get through with the supplies we could carry.

So we made a decision to take the Elwood Pass alternate to South Fork and Creed and then back to the main trail on the other side. It was the only way we could stay on trail and keep moving forward. At a little after 3 we found that Elwood Cabin. It’s a small forest service owned cabin in Elwood pass at 11,500 feet in elevation. They rent it out during the year but with so much snow it was deserted and the door was unblocked. We decided to check it out with no intention of staying since it wasn’t even 3 o’clock yet and we had only come 14 miles but it had bunk beds with mattresses and a wood stove and we ended up just watching the afternoon slip away. There was even a propane stove and propane lanterns mounted on the walls.

We lit the wood stove a little after 5 to heat up the room and just sat around relaxing. Suddenly we heard a knock at the door. We looked at each other wondering who it could be as we hadn’t heard a snowmobile and the only other way up there was by foot or helicopter. Widesky opened the door and there stood Monster. Apparently when he had bailed out of the snow a few days before he had hiked down to the other side of Platoro and gotten a ride so this time he had gotten a ride back to Platoro and started hiking from there. He had actually been following our tracks most of the day. We asked where Moonshine Pete was because last we had heard they were in Chama together. He said that Moonshine had decided he was done with the snow and was going to walk highways towards Canada until the snow melted. Monster joined us in our borrowed cabin and we all got caught up. He said he was determined to be the first through the San Juans this year and was going back up. He showed us pictures of his tent from the week before and it was completely snowed in. Apparently he had spent the nights pushing the snow off it to keep it from collapsing before finally giving up and hiking out of the mountains. We watched the sun set and saw a gray fox roaming around, and drank coffee someone has left there. We all chose a bunk and crashed in our warm cabin.

On the 14th I woke up early around 5 am and went outside to pee when I noticed the largest porcupine I had ever seen. This thing was the size of a large hog. I turned to go back inside and find my camera when I noticed it was eating the handles of Monster’s tracking poles. I had to sacrifice what would have been a picture worthy of National Geographic to save them. In my mind I was transported back to a night on the Appalachian Trail when I was staying in a shelter with my friend Dayhiker. That night I awoke to a porcupine ambling around outside in the dark. I took a few pics of it which didn’t really turn out and then went back to sleep. In the morning we awoke to discover that it had chewed the handles of Dayhiker’s poles down to the core. ( they like the salt that seeps in from sweaty hands)

Here on the CDT, I saved monsters poles and the porcupine slowly ambled off completely unimpressed with my efforts.

In the morning Monster was elated with my heroics but still eyed the gnaw marks on his handles with disdain. We made coffee and then Monster headed off towards Pagosa Springs and the high San Juans, while Widesky and I cleaned up the cabin and headed towards South Fork and the Creede alternate.

It was 26 miles to town and it was on snow for quite a whiles after which we hit a dirt road and walked down to highway 160 for the last 7 and a half miles into town. We hiked in snowshoes for the first few hours until we got to a lower elevation where we no longer needed them. It was a long walk on a dirt road but as we got lower we paralleled the South Fork of the Rio Grande which made for pretty scenery.

Around 3 in the afternoon we hit the highway and turned left towards town. It was hot and tiresome, toting the winter gear and snowshoes makes for a super heavy pack and I was nursing blisters on my right foot from my new boots but we made it. A Mexican restaurant called Ramones was our first stop where we had dinner then we walked over to the Aspen Ridge RV park where we could tent for 10 bucks apiece. We decided to zero and stay the next night as well. So for the moment I’m in South Fork Colorado, the rv park provides a tricycle to ride around town, and I’m taking advantage.

Soon I’ll head to Creede and then back to the official trail and the mountains, making my way north the best way I can.

Oh and we just got word Monster had to bail out again to Pagosa Springs but still plans on hiking back up above tree line in a few days.