To Yosemite and Beyond-

On the 28th a blustery Sunday morning it was time to find my way back to the trail. I made my way down to the highway around 730 and set up to hitch. The only place that was wide enough for a car to pull over was the bus stop so I set up there and it was early so there wasn’t much traffic. A bus did pull in and tell me they had started running a shuttle up to the campground near the trailhead but it left from the village and didn’t leave till 930. He said he would take me to the village for free so I climbed on board. When I got off at the village it was deserted it looked like some abandoned resort. The bus wasn’t coming till 930 and that was still an hour away so I stuck out my thumb. Sure enough not long after a guy and his dog in a suburu pulled over and I hopped in he drove me all the way to horseshoe lake where I what on a 3 mile trail back up to the PCT. I quickly made the miles and was soon back on trail it was going to be a great day as Reds Meadow Resort was just a few miles away just off the trail and they had a cafe where I could get lunch. I made it there a little after 11 am and ordered a cheeseburger and potato salad and sat out on the picnic tables and ate with other hikers. It was delicious and I soon wolfed it down. From there I decided to take a short side trip to the nearby Devils Postpile national monument. Its these weird hexagonal looking rocks that stick out of the mountain. Pretty cool actually. From there it was a short hike back to the PCT and I continued on my way. I was starting the long climb up to Donahue pass where I would enter Yosemite but it was still nearly 20 miles away. I hiked on for a while and the wind me was blowing strong. I didn’t want to climb to high and be stuck in an exposed site so I stopped early part way up the hill where there was at least a bit of cover to partially block the wind. Though it was still whipping my tent ferociously. I made dinner ate and retire early for the night. I got back to the trail at PCT mile 903.3 and I had hiked to mile 915.9 a 12.4 mile day plus the 3.5 miles back to the trail. 

Monday the 29th I awoke and it was cold I didn’t want to crawl out of my warm sleeping bag so I got a late start not hitting the trail until 6 am. I had no idea what the temperature was and was wandering if it was just me but I noticed the puddles and standing water on the trail was frozen over. I pulled out my Z pack possum fur gloves,  pulled my beanie down tight and walked into the chilly morning. I’m usually pretty good at rock hopping across streams and creeks and, yes it is an art form, but I slipped on a wet rock and fell while crossing a shallow steam luckily I managed to catch myself only soaking one arm of my coat and one of my gloves. I regained my feet and ran tried to stay in the sun as much as possible as I hiked on. I enjoying the morning as I climbed a shorter climb over Island Pass heralded the long slow climb up to Donahue. I had grown complacent with the easy to follow trail and wasn’t checking my nav app as often as I should and the trail decided to play a trick on me and turn at an unmarked junction. I was happily following a lovely trail that lead by the lakeshore and spiraling up into the mountains. I finally looked at the app to see where I was and I was on the wrong trail! Oh no! Ok so I was having a bit of an off day starting late falling in a creek and now off trail but it happens and it was a gorgeous day as the sun warmed the mountain valley. I looked towards where the trail I had to get to was supposed to be and took off cross country I climbed boulders walked through meadows, crossed clear snowmelt streams and reveled in the warm sun drying my clothes. After a half hour or so I found my way back home to the PCT and climbed over Island pass. From there I continued on up to Donahue at 11073 feet. There at the top I entered Yosemite. There were weekenders scattered about and I waved and hiked on headed down the mountain. I could see the Touloume Meadows spread out far below. As I descended I met multitudes of vacationers climbing up. I chatted with a few answered their questions of how far is it and where are you coming from and what trail is this as I could and I steadily mad my way down the mountain. It was early but I could already see many tent sites filled to the brim with locals and day hikers so I figured I’d have trouble finding a spot as the the day wot on. I crossed the Lyell fork and other creeks. I finally made it down out of the rocks and into the trees and the meadows. A beautiful grassy place with the mountains in the distance and a creek running through. The trail skirted the meadow and walked through the trees alongside.  The sky was darkening ahead and I came to a beautiful spot with campsites just a little off trail in the trees and no one was around. It was earlier than I had planned to stop but I eyed the coming storm the meadow huge trees and creek and decided to stay. I set up camp and even the mosquitos were leaving me alone. I walked out into the meadow and watched the pellucid waters of the creek flow by. There was one fish swimming about enjoying his lazy afternoon. I returned to camp and ate as the wind picked up and the clouds rolled in. As I felt the first drops of rain I returned to the open grass and watched the storm rolling in from the distant peaks but soon retreated to my tent as hail began to fall. The storm raged but only for a bit leaving a crisp wild evening behind as another day faded away on the PCT.  Mile 933.6 a 17.7 mile day

530 AM on  the 30th I was walking along by twilight watching the first morning rays see the mountain tops afire in rosy red glow. I was headed towards a bathroom at the parking lot 8 miles away. It’s always a good day when you find a toilet. I was making great time down beside the meadow towards the road. Half a mile from the road crossing  and parking lot which was my goal I passed a smaller parking area and a guy came rushing towards the trail. I continued on but as I glanced behind I realized I had attracted the tree police (ranger well young kid intern ranger) I was headed for the bathroom and I kept walking, I could tell he was already out of breath as we continued our slow speed chase through the woods. I was not worried as I was legal with a valid permit and a bear can but I didn’t see the need to stop unpack my pack dig out the permit and show it to the guy. Several hikers went by going the other way but he didn’t bother them, he had zeroed in on his target and it was me. I made it to the highway and had to stop for traffic and he caught up. I said good morning he gave me this gleeful grin like ahha I caught you, you dastardly criminal. Traffic cleared and I crossed: he seemed flustered as he followed asking me what I was doing where I was going and such. I think he thought I should be quaking in fear at the authority of his uniform. He finally said would you show me your permit? I replied “ sure thing right after I use the bathroom over there” he looked aghast as tho he simply couldn’t believe I didn’t drop my pack lay everything out for inspection and bow to his wide brimmed hat. I walked on,  he trotted yelling “bear can?” “Yup in my pack” I said “what kind?” I don’t know I rented it” describe it” “um big plastic jar with a black screw on lid” I reached the bathroom and he finally magnanimously said “ok I’ll let you do your business” thanks” I replied as I walked in.” 

This was a super busy parking lot in Yosemite with cars and day people everywhere but when I came out he was gone he hadn’t wanted to check anyone else at all just the filthy hiker obviously coming in over the pass. He was singling out PCT hikers and harassing them. I had heard reports of it from other hikers, even of rangers going so far as lying and telling PCTers their permits aren’t valid (they are) and trying to make them leave the trail. I don’t know it’s a strange year on the trails.

So I snacked and watched the people for a bit then grabbed my bag and walked on. I stopped by soda springs, this weird spot where carbonated water bubbles up from the ground,and now one knows why. I tried a drink and it tasted awful but supposedly people and animals come from miles around to drink it. From there it was on to the Tuolumne Falls a beautiful waterfall, and no one was there. I had it all to myself as I sat on the warm rocks with my feet in the freezing water. I stayed for a while and ate lunch enjoying the solitude. After a while the day hikers came with all their noise and I moved on deeper into the mountains. I went down and up I heard a bear and it ran off crashing through the brush before I could catch sight of it. I climbed up and made camp at mile 958.4. Just before camp I passed the big group of hikers I had seen in town they were off trail resting on some rocks. As I started to set up they came by 15 of them all in a row walking in sync blasting music like the elephants on parade; they marched on by and up the trail. A 24.8 mile day

The 1st of July I awoke and hiked on I hiked past miller lake and down to a saddle and climbed up towards Benson Pass. I passed the passed as they were breaking camp and I climbed on to the top for breakfast with a view. As I ate the group created behind me and Isaid my good mornings and quickly took off down the mountain chasing solitude. I hiked on and on over hill hill and across rivers. I made it over Seavey Pass and down to the creek in stubble field canyon at mile 982.3 for a 23.9 mile day. It was a beautiful spot just on the other side of the creek which I waded. There were huge trees and boulders dotted about. I set up my tent and made dinner. Later while lying inside my humble abode a deer walked all about acting quite suspicious but I guess she was just curious.

The 2nd I got up and hiked up from the river. I was headed for Dorothy Lake and above it Dorothy Lake Pass where I would exit Yosemite after walking all the way across the park. It was a beautiful morning though the mosquitos were insane. Not even the great science fiction writers imagined such hordes. I liberally sprayed myself with deer and as long as I didn’t stop moving that seemed to keep the worst of them at bay; tho woe betide anyone that stopped for a break. I passed Wilma Lake and walked along Falls Creek for a while continuing north until after a steep 12 mile climb I reached the lake and and made my way along its shore once I reached the far end I climbed up over the pass and just like that I left Yosemite behind. This was also the end of the forced bear can carry and I was a bit surprised there wasn’t a few abandoned canisters by the trail. I would be able to get rid of mine the follow day at Kennedy Meadows North. From the pass I hiked down through the warm afternoon listening to birdsong and marmot whistles. I made it down to the saddle and hike a mile up to Kern Canyon creek which I crossed on a log before setting up camp in a grove of trees. It was the last reliable water source before Sonora Peak and The Highway at Sonora Pass 11 miles away where I would hopefully be able to hitch to town. I was at PCT  mile 1005.9 a 23.6 mile day.

The 3rd I was up and headed for town and food. I had already climbed the 4 miles up to the ridges as the sun woke up for the day. I faced a few fields of snow as I skirted Sonora peak and followed the trail through spectacular scenery as it ambled up and down along the mountains. I could see the highway down below but the trail was in no hurry to get there as it ambled along. I knew I couldn’t be far when I met packless day hikers coming up from below and by 9 am I had covers the 11 mile up and over the pass and down to the road. I met a couple of other hikers that I had seen before and finally got their names RJ and Best Buy. We waited on the shuttle that was supposed to arrive at 930 but it never showed so we wound up hitching. An awesome guy in a Subaru picked all three of us up and carried us down the mountain. A couple of wrong turns later and then a right one and he dropped us off at the resort. It was bustling people everywhere. We later found out California had closed the beaches right before the holiday weekend forcing everyone to go celebrate their independence in the Mountains. By limiting the places people could go they were actually forcing everybody closer together. Kennedy Meadows is privately owned and not in a park and the authorities are also limiting the number of vehicles that can enter the parks so here just outside the boundaries every parking spot campsite and Bush seemed to be full of people. Luckily PCTers have their own spot out back to chill behind the generator where the normal vacationers would never go. So I made it here and I got a bed in the bunkhouse for 40 bucks plus 5 for sketchy WiFi that’ll at least let me call home though I won’t be able to post this till I get signal in a couple days cause it’s not that good of wifi. So I got my resupply box and I’m eating a cheeseburger. hopefully I’ll find a shuttle out of here tomorrow on the 4th and hike on. It’ll probably be after the holiday before y’all read this so Happy Independence Day!!! Y’all