Afterwards I found a burger and ate, then just chilled at the hostel, worked on the blog and went to bed. Saturday I found the gear store and bought tent stakes (I keep breaking them) and got some new camp shoes (I lost one somewhere) at the used gear store just down the street. ( camp shoes are a much debated issue among thruhikers because of the extra weight but I deem them a necessity: I can’t wait till I can pull off my trailrunners at the end of the day slip on my camp shoes and let my feet air out: plus they’re all I wear in town.) Anyway after that I returned to the hostel and finished the blog. In the evening I went to the theatre they were playing the Goonies on the big screen for 5 bucks! It was awesome; and I love social distancing the row behind and in front, and all the seats beside me were roped off. I bought a hot dog and a coke and returned to my childhood in a nice air conditioned room with a reclining seat; paradise.
After the movie I got some tacos and took them back to the hostel chatted with some other hikers for a while and retired early. It’s kind of weird being a flipper. (Not starting at the beginning, walking to Canada and then going back and finishing what I missed) I have no trailcred. The conversations are like this ( hey you hiking the PCT? “ me Yup but I started at walker doing a flip) then them “oh” as they dismiss me and walk away. Now I don’t blame them they have crossed 700 miles of desert and they are feeling awesome and superior and rightly so but most of these are on their first trail and haven’t faced the mountains. I honestly don’t care as HYOH ( hikike your own hike) is rule number one and generally find it funny but sometimes I try to offer a bit of advice. This big long haired fellow came up to my table with a set of new hiking boots set em down and stated “got boots, altras suck people only wear them cause they’re popular.” Now I generally just agree cause whatever but I’ve seen new boots end thruhikes, Honestly it sucks breaking in boots on trail, that’s one of the main reasons most hikers wear trailrunners they’re way more flexible and easy to break in: plus they dry quick which is important when wading creeks and postholing in snow and altras last for 700 to 1000 miles which is important when you are going thru so many pairs of shoes a year. I didn’t say anything at first but he persisted (you wear altras don’t you? I said yea they work for me.” He said “you need boots” I asked did you start at Campo he said “yea” I said you been wearing boots?” Nope altras” I said “ok” him “ didn’t like em; need boots I said “ok” him “why you wear altras?” Me “ they dry fast, break in easy and last a long time plus I usually get last years model cheap.” Him “don’t plan on getting them wet and I have boot feet so don’t have to worry about breaking them in”. It’s still 1900 hundred miles of snow, river and streams to Canada but I just said “ok” he suddenly realized “ You didn’t start at Campo?” Me “nope doing a flip’ him “ooh” as he grabbed his boots and walked away. I quietly wished him luck.
So I went to bed planning on an early morning. The bus didn’t run on the weekends so I had to hitch out of town and make my way back to the trail.
I woke up at 530 and got packed as quietly as possible so as not to disturb the other sleepers in the bunk room and was soon on my way, by 630 am I was standing on the corner with my thumb out. It’s kinda like fishing, be quiet, patient and don’t scare the fish. So I stood there for a bit trying not to look like a serial killer with my long hair and my missing tooth smile ( I was supposed to get a new one and the dentist shut down cause of Covid). So yea Hitchhiking during a pandemic lol. But I swear there’s a special class of folk; you can call us lost spirits or Gypsy souls, eternal wonderers or just plain travelers but we recognize each other and I got picked up. A camper went by and didn’t stop and I waved and kept trying to hitch then a few minutes later that camper came back around the block and stopped! They unlocked the side door and let me in. (If y’all are reading this thanks again) They had a couple of awesome dogs that I got to hang out with and gave me coffee and great conversation and carried me the 40 some odd miles up the road to Independence. People like these always make great memories as they come into your life for a few minutes in a time of need and you’ll always remember them as friends you met on the road.
They dropped me off at Independence and headed on up the highway I had to take a right and make it up the long winding road to the onion valley trail head where I had hitched in from. This meant another hitch so I set up on the corner and again stuck out my thumb. Oh the kindness of strangers, a solitary beast by nature, I love these instant friends: quick glimpses into interesting lives. I was soon picked up by a snowboarder from LA scoping routes for next winter. He carried me to the trail head and dropped me off.
From there it was a long 7 plus mile hike up over Kesarge pass to reach the Pacific Crest Trail. As I climbed up the weekenders were coming down. It was shift change in the mountains. The ones that went up for a few days coming out and us that live there returning from our vacation in town.
I was beginning a race: a race to make it to Mammoth lakes to pick up my resupply box at the post office before it closed on Friday. 119 miles away across some of the roughest terrain and over some of the tallest mountains the country had to offer, I had 5 and a half days.
I hit the trail and climbed I made it over Glen Pass in the hot afternoon sun. Above tree line there was no shade and the trail was rocks pounding my feet and crunching my ankles. I made decent time and crossed over and down to the saddle where there was a river and a swinging bridge. I camped there and slept well, happy to be back on trail. I was at mile 799.8 I had made it 10 miles on trail plus the 7 plus mile on the side trail.
The next morning sunrise found me hiking passing huge trees and climbing I had to get up to Pinchot Pass at 12107 feet back down to a saddle below 10 and then back up to Mather at 12094. I am not a fast hiker but I am a determined one I walked all day long. I was walking at 5 that morning up the mountain and over and down and up the next. It was a long climb up the rocky slopes of Mather There was a steep climb in the last couple of miles and quite a bit of snow to get through but I made and found a few other hikers resting that the top. I ate snacks and took in the view; mountains as far as I could see. It was a hot afternoon and the snow was steep and slick on the other side as we descended. It was simply too soft to walk across on the steep mountain sides so there was only one way down. We eyed the steep snow slope and the rocks far below then one by one sat down on our butts in the snow and started to slide down the mountain. With a yell and a prayer I sat and slid digging in my heels to slow myself down as much as I could watching another hiker tumble end over end below. I laughed aloud as I zoomed on barely steering by a huge rock jutting out of the snow. I somehow managed to stop before a snow free rock field and stood on a boulder shaking the snow out of my pants. From there it was a boulder scramble down and across the mountain to where I could pick up the trail again and hike on down past the Palisade lakes and eventually to mile 820.6 a beautiful spot near the Palisade creek waterfall. It was 630 pm a 13 and a half 20.8 mile day. I did my chores, climbed in my tent and passed out.
Tuesday the 23rd, I was up at 430 determined to make miles, it was to be a long day. I started at mile 820.6. It was down for a while and I enjoyed the twilight as the sun slowly woke for the day. I walked thru forests hopped across streams on rocks and crossed logs over creeks. Deer scampered thoroughly the sun dappled forest as I meandered my way through the morning hours.it was 7 and a half miles down to the low point for the morning at 8051 feet alongside the Kings River. From there the days hike really began. It was 11 miles up to Muir’s pass at 11969 feet. A long slow climb. And the mosquitos were out and they were legion, clouds of bloodsucking monsters at every turn. Luckily I still had some spray I prefer not to use it and rarely do but as I learned last year in the Winds mountains sometimes it’s almost a necessity for survival. So I sprayed it on and it seemed to keep the worst at bay and I climbed up out of the forest back into the rocks of the Alpine Sierras. I drank clear cold water from snowmelt streams and basked in the beauty of Helen Lake. It was a clear mountain afternoon and the sun was hot. Onward and upward I went. Sparse snowfields were scattered about the last few miles but weren’t anything I hadn’t dealt with before. It was a long climb but a beautiful one. Peaks and valleys were scattered out all around and behind I could see lakes and creeks and forests fading off into the distance.
As I neared the top I started to see other hikers. I passed a couple of older gentlemen with new packs and they asked if I had any idea how much further the tip was? I checked my app and told them it was only .4 miles. They replied “Thank God” and followed behind with renewed vigor. I passed a few more and could see others still ahead. From rock to rock I followed the trail until I could see the top of the Muir shelter just ahead. Then I was there as I approached I could see a dozen or more hikers scattered about as though some ship had crashed scattering it’s haphazard crew about the mountain peak. in all states of dress, clothes drying on rocks, eating, smoking, debris flying about in the wind. It was not the serene mountain peak I loved, so I rested for a bit, chatted with a few PCTers, briefly checked out the hut and then hiked on.
I could see the sky darkening in the distance as thunder rumbled I hoped to make it as far down as possible before I hit the storm. My feet and shoes were soaked from snow and creeks and sore from walking on rocks all day so I was moving slowly but I was heading down through rocky alpine meadows watching marmots play and passing serene snow fed lakes. I drank straight from the cold streams and rested on ice age boulders cast off by the glaciers that had carved the valley I was trekking through. The skies stayed dark ahead and thunder still rumbled but I never reached the storm. I made it back down into the trees and shortly after 6 knew I needed rest so I stopped on a nice flat spot within site of a small water fall coming down the mountain and made camp. I fell asleep to the sounds of the creek falling and crashing on the rocks. A 25.4 mile day.
Wednesday as the sun awoke and warmed the mountain slopes it found me hiking the rest of the way down from Muir Pass fighting mosquitos and happily munching on my breakfast bar. There’s no time to dally in the mornings so I eat and drank breakfast while I walk. I always pour a breakfast essentials and 2 instant coffee packets in a small water bottle mix it up and drink it cold. Protein, vitamins, and caffeine on the go. I usually eat a belvita breakfast biscuit for the carbs and that’s my morning power up. The upper alpine majestic views above treeline are insanely awe inspiring but I’m a southerner from the woods of west Tennessee and I love hiking through the forests and trees. The trees out here are huge old evergreens, pines with foot thick park and football sized cones. Ancient cedars and conifers shaded my descent. I crossed creeks and dreams hopping on rocks and logs relishing my dry feet. I passed a small ranger cabin with smoke coming out of the chimney. I’ve heard they are really hating on hikers this year so I quietly snuck by not wanting to be bothered. Eventually I reached evolution creek one of the widest crossings on the PCT. I generally just wade in shoes and all but I looked at my dry feet and at the river thinking of all the miles I had yet to go that day sighed and pulled off my shoes and socks. The water was a little under waist deep and cold. I made it across and climbed up on a huge rock to dry my feet. Of course as soon as I sat down the mosquitoes descended. I sprayed my arms and pulled out my bug net from deep in my pack and pulled it on over my hat.
After a few minutes I pulled on my socks and shoes and continued on. The trail followed the creek for a bit as it crashed on down the mountain in a series of rapids and waterfalls. I crossed Piute creek bridge and left Kings Canyon National Park and entered the John Muir wilderness. I reached the saddle at 7894 feet and from there it was time to begin the days climb up to Selden Pass. It was lower than the ones from the past few days but still a long 8 mile climb up to 10913 feet. I followed the trail as it switchbacked back and forth across the mountain. Another hiker I had seen the day before jogged by with a wave. I stopped for lunch near a creek and an elderly lady came from somewhere and yelled hi as she hiked by. A few folks heading south broke up the day. I passed tree-line and hiked by heart lake eventually reaching the top of the Pass where I enjoyed a snack break with a friendly marmot and then started the descent. I went down past Lake Marie and met the hiker that had went by me earlier she said her name was Quinco or Quinto? (Not sure) we hiked and talked for a while she was thruhiking and had strarted at Campo. We reached Bear Creek another wide crossing and took off our shoes and waded in, it wasn’t deep or to swift at the crossing point and we had no problem making it across and scrambling up on the huge rocks on the other side. The mosquitos were insane and it seemed as though if you swatted one 10 more took its place. We got going again and she soon left me behind. I made it down to the tree-line and eventually the saddle and partially up the next climb before crossing a small bridge and stopping for the night at a flat spot on the rock side of the mountain. My tent won’t stand up without being stakes and I couldn’t drive stakes into the granite ground so I gathered fairly heavy rocks and tied each corner of the tent to one; this worked and I was able to crawl inside and hide from the mosquitos. They covered the screens of the tent doors as they tried to get in but it kept them at bay. I cooked and ate in my tent and retired for the evening. I was at 873.1 a 27.1 mile day.
Thursday the 25th I was up and hiking at 5:30. I was feeling good about my chances of making it to the post office in Mammoth Lakes on Friday to pick up my resupply box. The big mile days over some of the highest mountains and roughest terrain in the states was wearing on me though. My feet were sore from the long miles of walking on rocks my knees rebelling from the 12 plus hours of pounding each day. The bear can I was being forced to carry was over loading my pack making it rub my back all day and causing friction burns. i was a bit of a mess but still determined. I had three mountains to conquer that day. I passed the turnoff to VVR a wilderness ranch where hikers that couldn’t make the 119 mile carry from Bishop to Mammoth Lakes would turn off for a brief resupply and I continued on. I spent the morning climbing up to bear ridge at 90879 feet and down the other side to a saddle and then back up to Silver ridge at 10379 feet. I made it to the top and down to the valley below. I got to the bottom and crossed a bridge before starting my climb up the next mountain to lake Virginia. It was that third mountain that did me in. The switchbacks were endless purgatory only gaining a few feet with every half mile. A short mile climb up had been turned into an endless uphill slog, It felt as though eons passed as I inched my way back and forth across that mountain. Somewhere stars were born and burned out, Rip Van Winkle took a nap and woke, Redwoods seeded blossomed grew and died of old age and still I crawled back and forth across that mountain following the endless switchbacks. A storm was moving in and after millennia I made it to a flat spot near the top, a half mile or so before the lake. I was done and needed a break but there was no way to take a break without being sucked dry by the hordes of mosquitos so I set up my tent and crawled inside. It wasn’t even 4 o clock yet and I had only made it 17 miles but I took a nap. The skies were darkening and thunder was shaking the mountains I was trying to get motivated and pack up and get a few more miles in around 5 pm after my nap but the wind picked up and I decided to stay and wait out the storm. The wind howled and ripped my tent stakes out of the sandy soil forcing me to hammer them back in but to no avail the soil was too soft to hold. So as thunder roared and the wind howled I climbed out and scurried about the mountain like a deranged squirrel chasing acorns: I gathered heavy rocks and carried them back to my tent. I drove each stake back into the earth and placed a heavy rock on top. My tent was standing firm. well the wind was still shaking it ferociously but it held and I crawled back in just as the rain began. I was dry and happy, safe for the moment in my tiny home.
The rain didn’t last long into the night and I still needed to get to town so I was awake at 3 in the morning. I was sore and cold and the wind was bashing at the door. I staggered out of my tent stood up and gasped in awe at the clear mountain sky. Infinite stars greeted me on a moonless night. I still had miles to make so I packed up and by headlamp and starlight made my way through the mountains the first stray sunbeams of dawn could soon be seen in the distance on the other side of the valley wall. I passed star reflected lakes and walked thru dark forests I climbed over the ridge and looked off into the distance at a sleeping world. The night shift yawned in the trees as the dayshift awoke with song. I took a turn off the PCT and climbed over duck pass as the sky brightened and walked on down to a campground road. The last word I had gotten from a week ago was that the roads to the campgrounds were closed and I would have to walk all the way to town so it was a nice surprise to discover the campground was open and I was able to quickly get a hitch from a guy that had dropped his friend off for a weekend backpacking trip. That saved me several hours walk and I was at the Post office by 9 am picking up my package. I had made it 119 miles across the high Sierras in 5 days. I got my box walked across to a cafe with out door dining and got a breakfast burrito. I was carrying my pack, burnt bronze from sun, covered completely in dirt from head to toe and the waitress didn’t even flinch she just brought me coffee and my burrito, obviously she had seen thru hikers before. The hotels had finally been allowed to open a few days before and I got a room at motel 6 so that’s where I’m at. I’ll head out Sunday and hike the 116 miles across Yosemite to my next stop Kennedy Meadows North where I can finally get this bear can out of my pack! 🙂
Hi Wallace, I wrote you a little note in your previous blog, but just found this one. TY for your kind words toward us. We feel the same toward you. Will continue to check your blog and think on you…..
Your ” gypsy souls” friend, Paul and Carmen
😀
Now that you got some mile on the PCT which of the crown is your favorite so far?
Idk the ATs best for beginners and it’s fun. The CDT is insane and the most out there in the wild. The PCT is beautiful views but not as wild as the CDT I guess they’re all my fav in some way