Forests and Ridgelines

The 22nd we were rearing to go but we were still trying to do shorter days so we could meet the fam. We left Panther Creek and climbed Big Huckleberry Mountain in the early morning hours. From there it was alpine meadows and lakes as I hiked by Sheep Lake. The trail grew steeper as I climbed on, making my way up Gifford Mountain aiming towards Blue lake where I was hoping to camp. The afternoon warmed as I hiked and I was looking forward to a camp by the lake and a swim. I started seeing more dayhikers as I got closer and somehow ended up in the middle of a bunch of track team kids from a nearby school. I got behind 5 of them and there was no way around on the single track steep trail. They didn’t move over so I followed along when from somewhere 4 more came up behind me. I was stuck in the group but only a couple of miles from camp so I just hiked on. We chatted and before long I could see the lake. People were everywhere! Where had they come from? I knew they hadn’t climbed that steep mountain I had just come up. Why this lake? I soon found Uphill and a forest ranger. She was telling him that the lake was full and we would have to keep hiking. Yup the PCT hikers that had walked 20 plus miles that day were being told to hike on so that the dayhikers that  had parked somewhere nearby and moseyed in could take up all the spots on the trail. Oh well what could we do? We hiked on. The next lake a mile on was packed too and some group had even packed in on Llamas and set up some sort of long term summer camp. We sighed and kept hiking. The trail was following a mountain side with zero flat spots where we cold sleep. We kept hiking as the sun sank and shadows lengthened miles later we reached Bear lake where we could see dayhikers ringing the shore. We found a peninsula that was empty however right off the trail. There were no camping signs at the end of it but we found nice flat spots before the signs and shrugging set up our tents. The woods were ridiculously overpopulated and we hoped the rest of Washington wasn’t going to be this way. We ate and chilled by the lake. Mile 2208.8 a 26.1 mile day. 

The 23rd I left the lake as the suns first rays shimmered on its clear water. Uphill and I had decided to hike to the small town of Trout Lake and hitch in to eat. Well actually we wouldn’t even have to hitch since apparently if we called the store they would send someone to pick us up. We had planned on skipping the town but we had time and we like to eat so we figured why not? But first we had to get there. We quickly passed bird mountain and began the gentle descent towards Mosquito creek. Washingtons wilderness surrounded us and the forest seemed timeless. Hoary trees with hanging moss and evergreens crowded the trail. We rock hopped creeks and streams and chipmunks skittered about. The trail wound around logs and boulders, roots and rocks. I crossed mosquito and Trout creeks and began the long ascent up a mountain called the Bumper. Forest Service road 23 would be about half up where I could head to town. A couple miles before the road I saw a couple of horses on the trail and as I got closer I noticed they were talking to Uphill. (The people with them not the horses) I walked up and it was explained they were riding the trail handing out trail magic. I was given a Twinkie and a Mountain Dew which was awesome! I talked to them for a bit and thanked them and then Uphill and I headed on. I was able to call the store and they promised to meet us where the trail hit the road so we hurried the last mile and three quarters. A truck was waiting and an awesome guy named Doug whisked us off to town. He dropped us at the Cafe where we were told there was no room to sit at the moment so we walked across to the store and bought snacks and stuff before returning to the cafe and snagging an empty table. Another hiker joined us cause he needed a spot to sit and we all ate burgers and fries. After our late lunch we went back to the store to find a way back to the trail. It took a while but a local got ahold of Doug and soon Me, Uphill, and a section hiker called ChiliDog we’re back on trail. Uphill and I weren’t going far as we’d already hiked over 20 miles that day but Chili Dog had stayed in town the night before so she took off up the mountain. We only walked another mile to a nice campsite by a bridge where we camped for the night. The bridge was also the site of a tragedy where a German Hiker called Finn had lost his life the year before when a tree had fallen on him while he stood on the bridge. Such a crazy random thing… 2230.4 a 21.6 mile day.

I thought of Finn as I crossed the bridge early on the 24th, he had left home, crossed oceans chasing adventures and never returned. We only have the moment we’re in. I hiked on chasing adventures of my own. The morning was rough climbing through a burned area. Crawling over deadfalls, getting lost and having to backtrack to find the actual trail. I eeked myself the rest of the way up the Bumper and then over The Hump. I was entering the Mount Adams wilderness and I could see the glacially covered peak in the distance. It was a beautiful sight and promised the beauty of the Northern Cascades in the days ahead. The burned area continued on around the mountain base and the sun glinted off the  icy mountain sides creating a surreal scene as it rose from the scorched wastes. The Trail walked all the way around to the northern side of the mountain leaving the burns behind for lava fields and then natural meadows and forests. Streams abounded and lava sporadically claimed the landscape as Mount Adams loomed over all. I spent the afternoon climbing Potato hill whose name still makes me smile for some reason. I made it to lava spring for my afternoon break. The spring appeared as if from nowhere in a small round pool amongst the lava rocks. It was clear cold and delicious. I met another hiker there but she didn’t speak and got up and hiked out when I sat down to eat. I ate and got going again, camp wasn’t far away and it was still early afternoon. I reached Midway creek a few miles later and saw the hiker I had seen at lava Spring sitting nearby. I started to say hello when I heard “oh my god, I’m sorry!” Coming from my left I instinctively looked over and saw a nude girl apparently showering not even ten feet off the trail with a very sparse tree in between. I just turned my gaze back right and crossed the stream without replying ( it seemed the gentlemanly thing to do was leave posthaste). 100 yards further on I saw the trail leading left across a field to where we had planned to camp. I found Uphill there talking to another hiker that appeared to have enough gear to survive the apocalypse. I told Uphill that there was currently a girl showering on the trail at the water source (and another one sitting nearby for whatever reason) so he might wanta wait awhile before getting water. The guy yelled “oh, that’s my daughter” ok, awkward I just looked at him and then walked over to a shady flat spot and started setting up my tent.  Uphill talked to the guy and found out he and his daughter were out for a week. They had hiked the 4.2 miles from Lava Spring to their that day and were planning to do 6 the next. Ah; such leisure. Mile 2254.2 a 23.8 mile day.

On the 25th I was excited to be climbing up to Cispus pass and Goat rocks. While also said to be the hardest section this was also supposed to be one of the most the most scenic with gorgeous views of Mount Adams and Mount Rainer. Up I climbed all morning long first through the trees and then above them to a windswept Alpine world ruled by rocks. On the barren mountainside I made my way baking in the sun to Cispus Pass the gateway to the Northern Cascades. I sat at the Cusp and ate my lunch before following the trail around. Mountains towered all about. Glacial creeks tumbled down the slopes. Everywhere was a cragged, jagged, world. I walked across on the slender trail crossing streams and water falls and climbing up to alpine tablelands. While still ascending it was flatter and more open. Wide vistas swept away on either side. This went on for a bit as I traversed the highlands. Dayhikers became prominent. Most carried no packs or gear. How they got up there I had no clue,  I chatted with a few and answered some questions as I hiked.Mt Rainer and Old Snowy popped out over the landscape as the trail narrowed and headed towards the ridges. Soon it devolved back into narrow steep single track trail that wound across the barren slate. I climbed up Old Snow’s flank to a narrow ridge walk known as the knife edge where the trail fell away on both sides and I balance on the foot wide ribbon of earth walking across the sky. I found a boulder to sit on and just existed for a while taking in the view at the top of the world. Mount Rainer, wrapped in ancient glaciers, glistened, not far away. Rocks fell away on each side straight down towards gentler slopes covered in trees with lakes shining far below. I continued on walking across the ridge on rocks that chirped and chimed as I trod making for a strangely musical descent as I walked. The narrow ridge line carried me on as I tried to take it all in. Eventually I traversed the crags and ridges and made my way down past creeks and ponds back into the tree line. I walked on headed for camp at a small Lake on the map called Lutz. I filled up my water bottles from a high glacial creek just before the trees cause I figured it would be cleaner than the lake water. After an afternoon jaunt through the forest I made it to lake only to discover lake was a pretty grand term for the large mud hole in the woods. Still there was flat camping spots so Uphill and I set up for the night. I had plenty of water and Uphill managed to filter enough from “Lake” Lutz. It was a pretty spot deep in the forest. We crashed early hiding in our tents to escape the bugs. Mile 2282.7 a 28.5 mile day.

The 26th I was up early after a night of little sleep. A cow elk had set up by the pond and bugled or barked or whatever cow elk do for hours after midnight. It was a wild, bemoaning cry that emitted with the force of a gale and reverberated about the trees in the pitch black. A cry that made you think about how deep in the wilderness you are. Lying in my tent in the dark listening to wild moaning cries I was laughing while I tried to sleep, hoping the Elk didn’t step on my tent. In the early morning the elk was gone or at least quite and I was up and on my way. I had to climb up and over Hogback mountain. There was a large burned area to traverse and elk ran along the trail ahead as the sun woke up and lit the world. Half asleep and daydreaming in a daze I hiked through the foggy daybreak.  Views of Mount Rainer distracted me  as I climbed over the mountain I wasn’t going far as it was a town day and I just had to make it to the highway. I walked along and could soon hear the traffic in the distance and then I left the trees and walked out onto the blacktop at White Pass Highway 12. A short walk to the west was the Kracker Barrell (with a K not to be confused with the chain restaurant) It was a small store and gas station. We got snacks and hung out. Uphill had actually gotten us a room at a hotel in the town of Packwood 20ish miles away but the shuttle wouldn’t pick us up for another couple of hours. I had a box there which included my new water filter. I had survived fine without one for hundreds of miles but I didn’t want to push my luck. I ordered an overpriced pizza and split it with another hiker that was hanging out. The lady that I had met seen at Lava Spring, and again later was there with her dad but she did no want to talk to me or Uphill. Though we found out she was a thruhiker and was called Bones. Her dad was supporting her for her hike with his truck. We all hung out at the picnic table until the shuttle arrived and Uphill and I were whisked off to town dreaming of showers and clean clothes. Mile 2295.4 a 12.7 mile day